Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
